revue de presse

This 5.5 hadomaine, of which 25% of its production is in red, is directed by 4th generation Michel Buisson, his daughter Catherine and son-in-law Patrick Essa. Among other things Essa noted that all wines will now have branded corks with the appellation, vintage and producer information. I will have more detailed vintage information in Issue 51 but for the reds I was told that the Bourgogne and Pommard were completely destemmed but 70% of the stems were retained for the Santenots. The domaine is quite rightly known for the quality of its excellent whites but don’t ignore the reds, in particular the Bourgogneand the Santenots as both are almost always unfailingly good. The 2011s were bottled without fining or filtration in December 2012. (Vintner Select, www.vintnerselect.com, Cincinnati, OH, Milton Road Trading Corp, LLC, www.miltonroadtrading.com, Napa CA, Scott Paul Wines, www.scottpaul.com, Portland, OR; Richards Walford, www.r-w.co.uk, HS Liquid Assets, www.hsliquid.com and Roberson Wine, www.roberson.co.uk, all UK).

2011 Bourgogne: An exuberant nose of picture perfect pinot fruit is cut with plenty of earth that is also reflected by the delicious, intense and vibrant middle weight flavors that possess excellent complexity for the appellation, all wrapped in a mildly rustic, long and balanced finish. This delivers fine quality and is worth your consideration if you’re looking for a Bourgogne that will repay some cellaring. 87/2016+

2011 Pommard “En Chiveau”: (En Chiveau sits at considerable altitude high above the village). There is a hint of crushed leaf to the otherwise very fresh red currant and dark berry fruit aromas that exhibit a hint of violets. There is a lilting and energetic quality to the lightly mineral-driven flavors that exhibit a touch of wood on the moderately austere and mildly rustic finish. This will require a few years of cellar time to round off the slightly edgy finish. 88/2017+

2011 Volnay “Santenots”: (from vines situated in the upper part of the vineyard that is distinctly rockier and actually more like a Caillerets than a classically rich and generous Santenots). A deft touch of wood sets off the ripe, pure and elegant aromas of spice and pepper inflected dried flowers and dark pinot fruit. There is excellent delineation and energy to the tension-filled, rich and complex medium-bodied flavors that possess a refined mouth feel before culminating in a balanced, understated and impressive persistent finish. Good stuff here. 91/2018+

En préparant le guide des meilleurs vins de France 2013, Olivier Poussier a eu un double coup de coeur pour deux cuvées du domaine Buisson-Charles : Goutte d'Or et Bouches Chères.

C'est un coup de cœur pour deux premiers crus qui ne sont pas les plus médiatiques de l’appellation Meursault. Les cuvées Goutte d'Or et Bouches Chères sont d’une définition remarquable. Il y a un potentiel de vieille vigne important qui leur donne cette dimension, ce fond, ce caractère.

Goutte d’Or 2010
Vendu 40 euros, c'est un excellent rapport qualité-prix.
C’est peut-être le plus beau des Goutte d’Or que j’aie jamais goûté.

Il a une dimension proche d’un grand cru, en terme de définition, de potentiel, de matière. Son opulence est bien gérée par beaucoup de finesse et d'élégance. Avec toujours cette touche équilibrée.

Ce que j’aime sur ce domaine, c’est la façon dont les bois sont gérés. Ils ne sont aucunement fardés. Ce sont des vins qui font totalement abstraction de l’élevage.

Il a une capacité de vieillissement d’une trentaine d’années sans aucun problème.

Bouches Chères 2010
Cette cuvée est un peu plus dans l’archétype de ce que Meursault peut représenter. Ce vin est finement beurré, crémeux, sans tomber dans la mollesse.

Un vin d'une grande élégance et d'une grande finesse. Derrière le gras et la générosité il y a le support acide qui permet à ces 2010 d’avoir du peps et du potentiel.

Voir la Video d'Olivier Poussier:

http://www.larvf.com/,vins-domaine-buisson-charles-coup-de-coeur-degustation-goutte-d-or-bouches-cheres,2001120,4247111.asp

Domaine Buisson-Charles, Meursault

I was met by the affable Patrick Essa. His father-in-law Michel Buisson is now 76. Patrick hasbeen running the domaine with his wife Catherine for the past twelve years.They have six hectares. One third of which in red in Volnay and Pommard. There are 4 hectaresof whites, only in Meursault. 2.5 of village vines and 1.5 premier cru. In the 2011 vintage therewill be some Chassagne next years. Patrick married into a wine family, but soon became hookedby his father-in-law. He explains that “it was really important for me to understand whiteBurgundy with a cultural vision. I do not produce wine for me, but for the appellation. Thedomaine name is not as important as the terroir.” The new label reflects this, as, unusually, thedomaine name is relegated to a position bottom left.

For Patrick one of the most important things is selection. “We select in the vines. I want nobotrytis and no green grapes.” He likes no more alcohol than 13 or 13.5 at the maximum. “Weadd nothing, no yeast, no enzymes.” He adds, “It is a vision centered on the culture of the vines– good grapes; grapes with good balance.”“We do not have a high production 40-45 h/ha white and 35 to 40hl/ha maximum for the reds.

However the 2010 was much lower and it’s not something I like either, as it is difficult to meet the demand of my importers. In 2010 they a very low 22hl/ha in the Aligoté for example. Theywere down to half yields on white in general and not much more for reds – 25hl/ha. (Compare2009’s 46hl/ha white and 42hl/ha for reds.) “We would select out any botrytis if there was any,

but the problem was due to the poor flowering. It seems they did not set. “We harvested withthe sun.” He recalls no problem with the storm. He harvested on the 18

th September – theprovisional date was 24th, but they brought it forward for the red and the 20th for the whites.(Pommard was later as they are younger vineyards).“I think it is the best vintage for white since 1999,” remarks Patrick. He liked 2009 for sweetness,but considers, “2010 has great concentration with acidity and perfect fruit and intense flavour. For me the slow alcoholic fermentation is a very good sign.” This finished in December.

For most the MLF is still going. Only about 30% are through MLF. “For me it is important as wework with a lot of lees. The lees are selected for aging for 18 months. I like a slow MLF; slow autolysis of the lees and I like the use of the natural CO2 to protect the wines, rather thanadding SO2.” He uses as little SO2 as he can get away with.He does not often use bâtonage generally. “I used some in 2008, but it’s not something I especially like. We have natural glycerol in the wine, we do not need bâtonage. I like purity and density and good balance with the acidity.”

Pressing: he likes a little foulage. He prefers to crush a little so he can use a lower bar (1.6 to amaximum of 2) of pressure and no turning. He does not like whole cluster in white for he feels he would have to use higher pressure. No sulphur is used in the first two hours. He sections off the juice, filling up each barrel by degrees, so he gets equal proportions of the lees in each barrel. It is all done by gravity to barrels in the cellar beneath the winery. It is all vinified in cask with 25% new oak then remainder in 1 to 4 year old casks. Only Aligoté is in stainless steel. “It is a very old vineyard, (70 years) which reaches naturally over 13 degrees, so in oak it would be too fat.”

A little sulphur before the fermentation. As mentioned he doesn’t like it, “but I can not make white without any protection.” “We produce wines for ageing; they are not that exuberant in the first part of life. The wines need five years, if it is possible.”

The samples were representative of the finished cuvees with 25% new oak, 25% 1 year old, 2 year and 3. So it is the expression of the cuveés. He uses just Vosges forest, only Damy and medium toast.

A very good flight of wines. Meticulous.

*Bourgogne Aligoté 2010

   Stony vineyard below the main road in Meursault with clay soils. 70 year old vines. 40% MLF. 12.8 degrees natural. pH 3.08. After fermentation TA 5.6. 10ouvres. 6.5 barrels. “Lovely harvest with small grapes in 2010. We have the same concentration as 2008, 2002 and 1999 which were very good years for Aligoté,” remarks Patrick. It is very important for me to have nose like spring water with no reduction in whites. Like the smell of a river. I like Aligoté to have green apple aroma. You should have this for a varietal expression

    after the MLF. Fresh and crisp and airy on the nose. Lovely ripeness on the palate. Firm acidity encased in fruit. It is energetic. Top notch. It will need a little time in bottle. Very zesty and concentrated for Aligoté.

This was the first wine I had tasted from this domaine and I had no pre-conceptions. I had selected them randomly to visit. Things suddenly looked rather interesting. I was keen to taste more.

Bourgogne Aligote 2009

Whafting aroma with fragrant, light aroma of lychee. A delicate note with white flesh. Pure and light and intense. It lovely. Ripe and very floaty. Delicious.

*Meursault, Vieilles Vignes 2010

6 different vineyards. He wanted a ‘round cuvée’ from the village. “If you have good soil withgood quality, but with no singular quality, it is better to blend to get complexity in the blend. It is an historic vision; the vision of our ancestors and our choice. 20 barrels. It will get 15 months in barrel with one racking. No fining. Many of Patrick’s wine in 2010 have no filtration. Breezy stone fruit on the aroma. Smooth expression. Lovely concentration and juiciness. There is good intensity here. A little grip and good, coating palate coverage. It shows complexity for a village wine. The finish is long and very pure. Really a lovely Meursault. From 2012/13

*Meursault, Les Tessons 2010

 1/3 of a hectare in the southern part of the vineyards, “rockier soil with red soil,” says Patrick, “So it makes an expressive wine in the first part of its life.” The vines are 50 years old. 50% MLF.Tiny production. Aromatic with hints of white peach. This is taut, pure and intense. Compact on the palate and the cool minerality comes though on the finish. Wonderful tension. Very mineral on the finish. There is a silkiness to the minerality. Particularly good. From 2013/14

Meursault, Les Tessons 2009

 Touch of pain epice on the nose. Very intense. Bright and lively on the palate. Smooth, straight and finely honed with satin texture. Lovely long finish. Just delicious. Score 17/20. From 2012/13

Meursault, Les Cras 2010

 “¼ hectare in front of their Volnay Santenots. Lots of small white stone and a sunny exposure.When you have pear, it is an indication of the ripeness of the vintage. This 13.5 – it is always high in alcohol and we always harvested this first.” Not a low pH here at pH3.4 and acidity 5.6 A more graphite minerality and savory aroma. The palate is rich, firm and taut. Slightly reserved. A full palate with ripe, but white, peach, but white peach and a sappy, austere note at the end. It has grip and intensity. Particularly good to fine. From 2014

Meursault, Les Cras 2009

 Spice and orange flowers. Ripe and rounded and sleek; very seductive. It’s full, generous withnotes of smooth stone. Breadth to the palate. An austerity with savoury character underpins it as it does the 2010, so it’s both rich and savory. Score 18. From 2015

*Meursault, Charmes 2010

Upper part, just under Perrières. Twenty year old vineyards. Tiny production. No millerandage,but very small grapes. 2 barrels only Intense aroma. Certainly ripe, but quite reserved. Very elegant. It is svelte and smooth. Lovely intensity and a whisperingly seductive finish. Very fine knit; silky, woven with glimmering acidity and threads of silky minerality. Quite secretive. I like its poise. Fine+. From 2014

Meursault, Les Gouttes d’Or 2010

TA5.6, pH3.2 and 13 degrees. 1/3 MLF. “Probably the best Gouttes d’Or me since 1979,” says Patrick. 4 barrels and 1/3 hectare. You can smell the MLF going though, but what is most evident is the compact palate, (he says it show typical menthol character). It certainly has palpable vigour and muscularity. A very athletic wine with darker, graphite minerality. Plenty of power on the finish. An impressive Goutes D’Or. Firmly fine. From 2015/6

Meursault, Les Bouchères 2010

Patrick sees this as likes neighboring Genevrières dessus – “the same style and soil and in the C19th it may have been sold as Genevrières.” Here the vines are 70 years old. It is a specialty of the domaine. pH 3.3 TA 5.6 13.5. It was the last vineyard they harvested in 2010.The MLF has not started. Haunting fragrant, aromatic nose. This is peachy, generously floral and spicy. It has a fragrance on the palate too floating above the juicy fruit. It has a looser woven texture. A supple, soft, lacy character. It doesn’t have the muscle of the Gouttes d'Or or the stony reserve of the Cras. It is subtle. Fine. From 2013

Stockists

UK: Richards Walford. Robertson; Flint

USA: Scott Paul. Vintner Select.

   Catherine and Patrick Essa’s new reception, crush, and storage facilities are now completed and they have expanded through control of significant additional acreage in Les Boucheres and Gouttes d’Or. Patrick Essa's approach (like that of his father-in-law Michel Buisson) seemed ideal for restraining any over-the-top tendencies of vintage 2006, but the 2007s here are also very successful, if slightly less obviously imposing. Readers are encouraged to consult my report in issue 180 for further details on the approach taken at this under-rated estate that produces consistently age-worthy Meursault.

    The Buisson-Charles 2007 Meursault Vieilles Vignes – which received the same 14 months of elevage (close to 13 of them in barrel) as the estate’s single vineyard bottlings – now represents an assemblage from diverse and complimentary sites, most notably (from south to north) Pellans (adjacent to Charmes); Millerandes (a considerable distance below Poruzots); and Meix Chavaux and Vereuils (high up, in the direction of Auxey). The estate still sells their non-cru Meursault from younger vines to negociants. Linden flower, honeysuckle, fresh lime, and white peach inform a nose that could almost be that of a Riesling, and the delicacy and refinement of this wine on the palate is consistent with that impression. A subtle suggestion of creaminess, along with notes of lightly-toasted hazelnut, alkalinity, and wet stone – all of which emerge as the wine takes on air – pulls toward the classic Meursault axis. Persistent floral notes and a hint of bitter-sweet orange zest add to the allure of a refreshing and buoyant, if understated finish. To the extent that 15% new wood is evident – and I find a mere trace of resin and lanolin here – Essa’s opinion is that this should always disappear into the fabric of the wine within 2-3 years or else he has misjudged his regimen. (For the record, he rather unorthodoxly favors lightly-toasted Vosges oak barriques.) Expect this to perform well for at least 5-7 years. 90

Picked, as it happens, on the same day as that of his friend Jean-Philippe Fichet, Essa’s 2007 Meursault Les Tessons reflects pungent, bitter-sweet, and in the context of white Burgundy downright exotic floral and citrus aromas and flavors. Orange blossom, candied apricot, and orange zest seem to be typical for this site, and may be traceable to the high incidence of individual vines whose tiny shot berries taste Muscat-like, a phenomenon familiar in California from the traditional Wente selection of Chardonnay. Luscious pineapple, tinged with toasted hazelnut and fruit pit bitterness further inform this wine’s creamy yet vivaciously citric and almost delicate palate, and the reprise of orange blossom along with liquid honeysuckle perfume reinforces the impression of lift in a long finish. I would have no fear of holding this for more than half a dozen years.  91

The Essas' 2007 Meursault Cras  – representing five barrels of fruit from old vines first repatriated from a negociant in the 2006 vintage – smells of candied lime zest, linden flower, mint, and salt spray; unites richness of texture with buoyancy in the manner illustrated by his Tesson; and finishes with peaches, liquid herbal and floral high-tones, and persistently saline, chalky notes. That mineral dimension – along with the wine’s overall cool, understated manner – seems to reflect its Corton-Charlemagne-like white chalk and (south-facing) high elevation, along the Monthelie and Volnay communal lines. This will doubtless strike some tasters as too restrained for its own good, while others (including this one) will point to refinement, refreshment, and subtlety that ideally suit it to savoring leisurely and with a wide range of cuisine. I am confident it will reward those with patience in pulling corks, too, and probably perform well for 8-10 years.   91

The Buisson-Charles 2007 Meursault Charmes  smells oily, fusil, and chalky in the way locals describe the odor engendered by breaking rocks. Toasted, malted grain, hazelnut, and white peach add familiar themes on a palate of mouth-coating richness and subtle but alluring creaminess, without sacrificing the estate’s trademark clarity to flavor nuances, and preservation of refreshment that leave me salivating uncontrollably. Hints of resin and spice from barrel are well-integrated and wood does not detract from this wine’s salient features: textural finesse, nuance, and refreshment. (It represents nearly 50 year old vines that touch Genevrieres, and if Michel Buisson were to have had his way, he volunteers, only one rather than two of the five barrels would have been new!) Expect this to perform well for a decade or more.  92

Production of Buisson-Charles 2007 Meursault Gouttes d’Or  represents (at six barrels) twice that of previous years. Peach; winter pear; pungent, buckwheat-like milled grain; citrus oils; and briny, alkaline notes mark the nose. A vibratory interchange of mineral, fruit, and nut and grain notes on the bright yet creamily-textured palate leads to a long, savory, saline, chalky, subtly cyanic finish that preserves an abundance of energy. This is a classic example of the house style here at its best, with a caressing textural sense paradoxically allied to an invigorating dynamic, and with enveloping creaminess not precluding refreshment. Count on it for at least a dozen years of intriguing pleasure. 93

The Buisson-Charles 2007 Meursault Les Bouches-Cheres  – whose seven barrels represent nearly a doubling of production – displays honeyed richness to accompany its creaminess of texture. Lightly toasted wheat, hazelnut and almond; fresh peach; and elusive floral essences and mineral shadings combine for a ravishing aromatic display, caressing palate, and refined, nuanced, and hauntingly long finish. This plays more to the soothing, seductive side of Meursault, and less in the direction of dynamics one finds in the Gouttes d’Or. I expect it, too, to be well worth following for a dozen or more years.  93

2007 Bourgogne-Aligoté:  A spicy, expressive and very fresh nose that is classic Aligoté in character leads to energetic,precise and racy flavors that possess plenty of personality and punch. If you enjoy the grape, this is a fine example. 85/2010+

2007 Meursault – Vieilles Vignes: A ripe and very Meursault nose features notes of honeysuckle, hazelnut and fresh citrusthat continues onto the rich and relatively full-bodied flavors that retain a fine sense of underlying detail and solid acid support, all wrapped in a balanced, energetic and perfumed finish. Lovely. 88/2012+

2007 Meursault “Tessons”: (from vines planted in 1964 and aged in 20% new wood). This is also quite ripe in the context ofthe vintage with a pure, refined and airy nose of dried rose petal, lemon zest and pear hints that can also be found on the precise, racy and intensely mineral flavors that possess excellent underlying material and outstanding length for a villages level wine. Recommended. 90/2012+

2007 Meursault “Les Cras”: Here the nose is riper still (which is typical for this vineyard as the site collects heat) with fresh notes of apricot, peach and pear nuanced by citrus hints that transfer over to the textured, precise and stony flavors that areunderpinned by a lovely sense of tension on the focused, persistent and sappy finish. 90/2012+

2007 Meursault “Charmes”:  As it usually is at this address, the Charmes is noticeably more complex if not necessarily moreelegant than the Les Cras with a layered, ripe and pure nose of orchard fruit and citrus blossom that complements the round and relatively opulent medium-bodied flavors that do not lose focus or precision on the sappy and mouth coating finish that displays admirably fine length. Lovely stuff and I like the hint of backend minerality. 91/2013+

2007 Meursault “Goutte d’Or”: This is slightly riper but more elegant with a subtle touch of spice adding depth to the citrus, apricot and fresh peach aromas that leads to detailed, lemony and more obviously mineral suffused flavors that possessexcellent complexity on the driving finish. There is absolutely no sense of heaviness present, which Goutte d’Or can sometimes display, with perfect balance. This is at another level. 92/2013+

2007 Meursault “Bouchères”: An expressive nose of high-toned white peach, citrus and pear aromas are nuanced by subtle notes of hazelnut and orange blossom that give way to rich, full, textured and mouth coating flavors that evidence a silky mouth feel and culminate in a focused, linear, vibrant and solidly mineral finish. This is impeccably well balanced and really drenches the palate in extract. 92/2013+

2007 Bourgogne :  A fresh, serious and earthy red berry fruit nose leads to rich, full and moderately structured flavors that are rustic but complex, all wrapped in a delicious and lively finish. Good quality for its level. 85/2011+

2007 Pommard “En Chiveau”: (En Chiveau sits at considerable altitude high above the village). A very subtle touch of wood frames equally fresh though more complex and spicier red berry fruit aromas that are nuanaced by hints of minerality and earth that continue onto the rich and relatively robust flavors that carry a trace of rusticity but not much and finish with plenty of Pommard character. Again, fine quality in the context of its level. 88/2013+

2007 Volnay “Santenots”: (from vines situated in the upper part of the vineyard that is distinctly rockier and actually more like Caillerets than a classically rich and generous Santenots). A distinctly floral nose displays a touch of wood on the complex, spicy and notably ripe cassis and red berry fruit mélange that introduces fresh, pure, precise and stony middle weight flavors that possess an attractive texture on the dusty, persistent and stylish finish. This is lovely and worth a look. 90/2014+

Wine Advocate N° 180

The estate of Michel Buisson – whose son-in-law Patrick Essa now takes the lead – crafts white Burgundies for the Riesling or Chenin-lover, offering clarity, refreshment, and minerality yet not stinting on richness or structure, and wines whose track record in the cellar is among the best of any Chardonnay-based wines in the world. Slow, vertical pressing, unhurried fermentation, largely non-new barrels passive lees contact (i.e. no stirring), and late (unfined, and usually lightly-filtered) bottling figure in the Buisson regimen. Although production is very small, some additional acreage will come on line (along with a completely renovated cellar) beginning in 2008. Predictably – and even though picking did not commence until September 22 – the 2006s here did not sacrifice clarity, refreshment, or mineral dimensions to the vintage’s ripeness or botrytis, and arrived at 13-13.25% alcohol. A portion of village Meursault tinged by rot and at 14% potential alcohol was sold off